That is an excellent question. I've never tried re-wetting model magic after it's fully dry, but considering how fragile it is, I'm not surprised it would fall apart. I know Akuriko (akuriko.deviantart.com/) created her armor for Zelda out of model magic and then covered it with resin. While I haven't tried it myself, it could be a great way to reinforce it and seal it from moisture.
For your last photo, I would love to see how you make the shape of the armor close fitting like that, I am working on my cosplay of Vayne from league and this is just a wonderful tutorial! I am doing her aristocrat skin.
I use white school glue ("Elmer's glue"), just the cheap stuff they sell at most stores for kid's crafts. I brush it on the Model Magic straight from the bottle. If it's too thick or sticky, I'll pour some of the glue into a cup and thin it with water. I usually use 2 parts glue to 1 part water if this happens. The model magic will dry the same, it just might need an extra coat since the first coat was thinner.
Did you leave the understructure in place and just completely cover it with the model magic? I know you did with the smaller pieces, but I couldn't quite tell if you did that with the larger piece or not.
For the larger pieces, I took the understructure out because it was thick enough to hold it's form. I also found that if I didn't take it out, the cardboard would absorb the moisture and cause the MM underneath to stay wet longer. With the outside drying faster than the inside, large cracks would appear all over the piece. Although if some cracks occur, it's possible to fill them in with more MM once the rest of the piece is thoroughly dry.
You're very welcome! Model Magic is tough to work with so I thought this would make it less intimidating to people. Just like any building material, it has it's limitations and advantages. If you have any questions, just let me know!
Absolutely! It seemed like a more viable option for me than Worbla (I just don't have the proper space or supplies to work with it), and while I have some craft foam, it just doesn't seem sturdy enough for busier cons and tournaments
I have a smaller townhouse so I know what it's like to be limited on space while trying not to destroy counter tops, sinks, etc., lol. I got to work with Worbla with my latest project and found it to be a lot cleaner to work with than other building materials. Once I get settled again, I'm going to make tutorial demonstrating some shortcuts I came up while using it. I don't it will replace Model Magic for all applications but it does have some serious potential.
Yeah, I'm in a one bedroom apartment as it is I'm sure my husband wouldn't be too thrilled of the entire place becoming a work zone. He already lost the coffee table and living room area I look forward to seeing a Worbla tut. Should be nice to see how it works once I can afford it!
Yes, you can fill in the cracks with more MM once the piece is fully dried. If there is a little bit of excess material around the spot that was patched, just take some high grit sandpaper to sand it flush.
I've had pieces crack before. I think it's because the surface is drying faster than the material underneath so it splits.
This is really amazing! I'm so challenged with clay type materials since I can remember...in grade school, we were to make Santa Claus...mine looked like a really thing gingerbread man, lol. Not much has changed, but I hope with this tutorial I'll be able to become more skilled. Thanks for sharing! Now...hopefully my armor will resemble armor...and not a pot or something.
Haha, not all things come out exactly how we have them in our head, do they? But I hope you'll find the tutorial helpful and gives you new hope for what can be done with this kind of clay. Best of luck!
Thank you for this tutorial! I don't know why it never occurred to me to try smoothing MM with water. I tried it recently for patching a tiny detail in a costume and it smoothed very well! Definitely broadens my options with MM, since I'd always put it in a mental category of "cheap, lightweight, good for bulk, but hard to put fine detail into."
This is the most interesting way i've seen this done- the only crit I could give is to try out something called "Pluffy" rather than MM because "Pluffy" can be worked with all day and never dry out or become unusable because it's oil based. This would have to be put in the oven-that's the only catch ><